Japan Quietly

Noboribetsu Onsen

Kashoutei Hanaya

花鐘亭はなや

Katsushika Hokusai, Kajikazawa in Kai Province. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, CC0

Kashoutei Hanaya, photo from its Rakuten Travel listing

Kashoutei Hanaya is a four-storey inn of 21 rooms in Noboribetsu Onsen. Eight room types run from plain tatami rooms of six to ten mats — toilet and washbasin, no bath or shower — up to a 45 sq m executive-floor suite with the inn’s only balcony. Every room has been non-smoking since April 2020.

The water is an undiluted, free-flowing sulphur spring drawn from Jigokudani, the “Hell Valley” steam field a kilometre away: acidic, hydrogen-sulphide type, milky and faintly cloudy, 65.8°C at source. One indoor and one open-air bath serve each sex, the open-air one beside the Kusurisanbetsu River; neither can be reserved for private use. Bathing is open around the clock except 01:00–04:30 for cleaning. Yuno-hana (湯華), the mineral flakes the spring sheds, settles on the tub floor; stir it and the water turns white.

The inn’s own pages disagree about guest-room baths: its rooms page lists a 34 sq m Japanese-Western room, “Botan”, as having a natural hot spring bath, while its FAQ states that no guest-room bath is hot spring water. Neither claims any room has an open-air bath.

Dinner and breakfast are both brought to the room, dinner starting 17:30–19:00 and breakfast 7:00–8:45. The 会席 (kaiseki) menu changes every three months and is served on the house’s own Arita ware. Check-in is 14:00, last arrival 19:00; check-out is 11:00. A free shuttle meets JR Noboribetsu Station if booked by 22:00 the day before. Bathing tax of 300 yen per person applies from age 13.


Why we chose it

Twenty-one rooms over four floors, with both dinner and breakfast carried to each — the inn’s own argument is that this scale is what allows it. The sulphur water is undiluted and free-flowing, so hot at source that the house says it can only be fed through a little at a time, and the baths are open all but three and a half hours a night. Draft beer and sake in the lobby are free throughout the stay.

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Prices are indicative and change with dates and availability.


Sources

Everything on this page was checked against these Japanese-language pages. Links open in a new tab.

  1. Official site (Japanese)
  2. Official site, hot spring page (Japanese)
  3. Official site, guest rooms page (Japanese)
  4. Official site, cuisine page (Japanese)
  5. Official site, facilities and services page (Japanese)
  6. Official site, access page (Japanese)
  7. Official site, FAQ (Japanese)
  8. Official site, sightseeing page (Japanese)
  9. Rakuten Travel listing, property details (Japanese)
  10. Jalan listing (Japanese)

Header artwork: Katsushika Hokusai, Kajikazawa in Kai Province. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, CC0


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