Japan Quietly

Arima Onsen

Hotel Hanakoyado

有馬温泉ホテル花小宿

Katsushika Hokusai, Kajikazawa in Kai Province. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, CC0

Hotel Hanakoyado, photo from its Rakuten Travel listing

Hotel Hanakoyado is an eleven-room inn in Arima’s old spa quarter, on the stepped approach to Onsenji temple. The building is old wood, one of few left in Arima, renovated after the 1995 Great Hanshin earthquake and modelled on the foreigners’ hotels that once stood here. Rooms are Japanese- and Western-style twins with beds, plus a suite; two premium twins, 36 and 42 sq m, occupy a separate building next door.

The water is Arima’s gold spring, kinsen, drawn from the Gosho and Neta sources beside the inn: iron- and salt-bearing, clear at source, browning in air. There is no communal bath. The two baths, Kaedero and Tsutabasu, run free-flowing, with water added or reheated when the spring demands it, and are private, 15:00 to 11:00 next morning, no reservation: you lock the door and guests take turns. Kaedero adds a steam room heated by the spring’s own vapour; Tsutabasu has a ramp and a bathroom wheelchair. Guests may also use the large half-mixed bath at sister inn Goshoboh, three minutes away, until 20:00. Only the premium twins have a bath in the room.

Meals are charged separately, served at Ryozen Shunju, the counter restaurant by the entrance. The house calls its cooking 山家料理 (mountain-house cooking) and sells dinner as a 山家会席 — charcoal-grilled, finished with rice from a kamado. No room service.

Check-in 15:00, check-out 12:00; 13 and over only, six to a booking, no pets, no smoking, no lift. Staff collect guests from Arima Onsen station on request.


Why we chose it

The bath arrangement is the reason to come. Two hot-spring rooms, no reservation sheet and no queue to sign — you lock the door and take your turn, any time between 15:00 and 11:00 the next morning. The inn is as direct about its limits: it says sound carries at night through an old wooden building, and it will not take anyone under 13.

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Prices are indicative and change with dates and availability.


Sources

Everything on this page was checked against these Japanese-language pages. Links open in a new tab.

  1. Official site (Japanese)
  2. Official site: baths (Japanese)
  3. Official site: rooms (Japanese)
  4. Official site: spring quality (Japanese)
  5. Official site: restaurant Ryozen Shunju (Japanese)
  6. Official site: accessibility (Japanese)
  7. Rakuten Travel listing (Japanese)
  8. Ikyu listing (Japanese)
  9. Jalan listing (Japanese)
  10. Arima Onsen Tourism Association profile (Japanese)

Header artwork: Katsushika Hokusai, Kajikazawa in Kai Province. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, CC0


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