
Arima Onsen
Kinzan
有馬温泉欽山
Katsushika Hokusai, Kajikazawa in Kai Province. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, CC0

Kinzan is a ryotei ryokan — an inn built around its kitchen — with 31 rooms in two wings. Founded in 1929, rebuilt entirely in 1994, with rooms renovated in stages since 2021. Fourteen have their own hot spring bath; the 17 sukiya-style rooms in the west wing have a cypress or plain tub the inn states is not hot spring water.

Arima has two waters, and Kinzan is exact about which reaches which bath. Both bathhouses, Tsuzumi-no-yu and Hana-no-yu, each with an open-air bath and a dry sauna, carry only the gold spring (kinsen) from the Gokuraku source: an iron-bearing sodium chloride water, brown once it meets the air. The 14 renovated rooms carry the silver spring (ginsen), a radon-bearing cold mineral water heated room by room. Kibune, 150 sq m, has a fully outdoor tub; east-wing rooms have opening windows, so their baths work as indoor or half-open-air, with a mist sauna alongside. The bathhouses swap between men and women evening and morning, open 13:00–01:00 and 05:00–12:00. Guests with tattoos are refused the communal baths and directed to a room with its own.
Meals are Kyoto-style creative kaiseki, served in the room; parties of five or more eat in a private dining room, and some plans use the private-room restaurant Hanakaido.
Check-in is 15:00–19:00, check-out 12:00. Children of primary-school age and under are not admitted outside set family periods. Staff will fetch you by car from the station or bus stop; the walk up is steep.
Why we chose it
Book the water you want. The gold spring runs only in the two communal bathhouses, the silver spring only in the 14 rooms plumbed for it, and the cypress tubs in the sukiya rooms are not hot spring at all — the inn says so on every room page. Dinner comes to the room, and one attendant takes no more than two parties a day.
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Prices are indicative and change with dates and availability.
Sources
Header artwork: Katsushika Hokusai, Kajikazawa in Kai Province. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, CC0
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