Japan Quietly

Jozankei

Kuriya Suizan

厨翠山

Katsushika Hokusai, Kajikazawa in Kai Province. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, CC0

Kuriya Suizan, photo from its Rakuten Travel listing

Kuriya Suizan is a 17-room inn in Jozankei hot spring village, 26 km south of Sapporo, in the Daiichi Hotel group (第一寶亭留). 厨 (kuriya) means the kitchen, and the inn is built around one. Eight rooms are plain 36 sq m tatami; the other nine, 62 to 122 sq m, each have their own hot spring bath — semi-open-air, picture-window or Japanese cypress (檜) — and the largest adds a private sauna.

The spring is sodium chloride (ナトリウム‐塩化物泉), from three springs rising unaided in the Toyohira riverbed, averaging about 69°C, which the inn calls free-flowing. The communal bath 川乃湯 (Kawa-no-yu, river bath) pairs indoor and open-air tubs above the river, cypress on one side and stone on the other; the sides swap between men and women during the 02:00–05:00 cleaning break. Bathing is 15:00–02:00 and 05:00–10:30. They cannot be hired privately; a basement sauna added in 2024 is booked on the day, 90 minutes for up to four, with cold plunge and self-service löyly.

Dinner is one course, the same for everyone, different daily, cooked in an open kitchen 2.5 m from the seats. It starts at 18:00 for everyone at once. There is no private dining room; guests needing allergy accommodation are sent to sister inns. Breakfast is 8:00–9:00; the second-floor lounge sets out free snacks and drinks, with a late dish at 22:00.

Check-in 15:00, check-out 11:00. Guests must be 13 or older; the building is non-smoking. A free shuttle from Odori in central Sapporo needs booking ahead.


Why we chose it

One course a day, no menu to choose from, cooked two and a half metres from where you sit and served to everyone at the same hour: this inn has decided what dinner is and stands behind it. The baths are good — a cypress and a stone open-air pair above the river, and a private hot spring tub in nine of the seventeen rooms — but the food is the reason to come.

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Prices are indicative and change with dates and availability.


Sources

Everything on this page was checked against these Japanese-language pages. Links open in a new tab.

  1. Official site (Japanese) — hot spring page
  2. Official site (Japanese) — rooms
  3. Official site (Japanese) — dining
  4. Official site (Japanese) — access
  5. Rakuten Travel listing (Japanese)
  6. Jalan listing (Japanese)
  7. Ikyu listing (Japanese)

Header artwork: Katsushika Hokusai, Kajikazawa in Kai Province. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, CC0


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